Château Pontet-Canet 2022 is a distinguished red wine from the Pauillac appellation on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, produced by the esteemed Fifth Growth (5ème Grand Cru Classé, 1855 Classification) Château Pontet-Canet. Under the stewardship of Alfred Tesseron and his daughter Justine, this estate has risen to prominence, often performing at the level of Second Growths or higher. Renowned for its pioneering biodynamic viticulture and innovative winemaking, the 2022 vintage is hailed as one of the finest in the estate’s history, earning exceptional praise for its purity, precision, and aging potential.
Estate Background
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History: Founded in the early 18th century by Jean-François Pontet, the estate grew through land acquisitions in the Canet area, forming one of the largest properties in Pauillac. Classified as a Fifth Growth in 1855, it was owned by the Cruse family from 1865 to 1975, when the Tesseron family acquired it. Alfred Tesseron, taking over in 1994, transformed the estate into a Médoc leader through organic and biodynamic practices.
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Location: Situated adjacent to Château Mouton Rothschild, the 120-hectare estate includes 81 hectares of vineyards on Garonne gravel soils with limestone bedrock, ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon. The gravel promotes drainage and heat retention, while clay subsoils mitigated water stress in 2022’s dry season.
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Grape Varieties: The 2022 blend comprises 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot, reflecting Pauillac’s Cabernet-driven style with Merlot’s softness and aromatic contributions from Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
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Biodynamic Pioneers: Since 2004, the estate has embraced biodynamic viticulture, earning organic certification (Ecocert, 2010) and biodynamic certifications (Biodyvin, 2010; Demeter, 2014). Vines are tended by horses to prevent soil compaction, and grapes are hand-sorted by a 30-person team.
2022 Vintage Overview
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Climate and Harvest: The 2022 vintage was marked by a cool winter, warm February, and frost-free April. Flowering occurred rapidly in May under summer-like conditions. June saw storms replenishing soil water, while July and August were scorching, with temperatures hitting 40°C. Clay soils and biodynamic practices prevented water stress. Harvesting, the earliest and longest in the estate’s history, ran from September 8 to 28, yielding 20% less than 2021. A clay sunscreen protected grapes from heat damage.
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Winemaking: Grapes were destemmed by hand and vinified primarily in concrete vats, with a small portion in wood. The wine aged in 50% new French oak barrels, 35% concrete amphorae (made from estate limestone), and 15% once-used barrels, enhancing minerality and reducing oak influence. Alcohol is 14.7%, with a pH of 3.85.
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Production: Approximately 25,000 cases annually, with no second wine since recent vintages, ensuring all fruit contributes to the grand vin.
Tasting Notes
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Color: Deep garnet-purple to vibrant purple-black, rich and vivid.
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Aroma: Pure and expressive, with blackcurrant, cassis, blackberry, and plum, accented by graphite, lead pencil, scorched earth, and perfumed purple flowers (from Petit Verdot). Subtle notes of dried herbs (thyme, sage, mint), licorice, clove, bitter chocolate, and mineral salinity emerge with aeration.
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Palate: Full-bodied yet restrained, with linear intensity and vibrant freshness. Layers of glycerin-filled blackberries and plums are framed by creamy, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. The texture is polished, with a chalky minerality, szechuan pepper, and a savory cheese-rind undertone. The finish is long, with peppery spice, minty freshness, and anise.
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Aging Potential: Structured for longevity, with firm, ripe tannins and seamless acidity. Suggested drinking window: 2028–2060, with peak enjoyment from 2035–2050.
Critical Acclaim and Scores
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James Suckling: 99–100: “What a finish… so much energy and brightness. It’s full-bodied yet so tight and focused with superb fruit and transparency.”
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Jeb Dunnuck: 98–100: “A sensational Pauillac… heavenly perfume of crème de cassis, smoke, incense, leafy tobacco, and chocolate. Sensational purity, flawless balance.”
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Lisa Perrotti-Brown (Wine Independent): 97–99: “Pauillac in all its powerful, energetic glory… nuanced black fruits, earthy and mineral-laced flavors.”
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Vinous (Antonio Galloni): 95–97: “A surprising wine… restrained and understated, marked by notable freshness and tension. Unforgettable.”