Lagavulin 1990 25 Year Old The Syndicate's Cask 4394 - 70cl/44.0%

Distillery history:Lagavulin stands on the south coast of Islay. The name comes from Gaelic and means “hollow by the mill.” It was licensed in 1816 by John Johnston. In the late 19th century Peter Mackie took control, and the malt became the heart of White Horse. The firm joined Distillers Company in the 1920s and became part of Diageo in 1997. Pear-shaped stills and slow distillation give its layered, elegant peat; the 16-year-old is the island’s flagship.

Whisky notes:This is not an official bottling. It was selected by The Syndicate's, a private Islay group believed to have been formed in the 1980s by former Bruichladdich chairman Sir John MacTaggart, his family and industry figures. They are known for rare Lagavulin single casks, a make Diageo almost never releases to independents. Distilled in 1990, matured 25 years in oak cask 4394, and bottled in 2015 at Bruichladdich at 44.0%, one of only 243 bottles.

Tasting notes:Nosing: sweet spice, elegant smoke and soft peat, then nutmeg, red fruit and smoked salmon, with peat rising later.

Palate: creamy, latte-like, with sweet smoke, ripe pear and tropical fruit, oak and dark chocolate in balance, and gentle peat at the end.

Finish: long and warm, with sweet smoke returning and fruit and peat fading slowly.